CompostaBlog

It is becoming more and more obvious these days that we need to recycle as much as we can, and anyone with a garden has a head start and can make a great contribution. To many novice gardeners, including myself, this subject can be somewhat difficult to grasp; but in fact it is really straightforward - there are just a few very simple rules:

You need a compost bin, and the type you decide on rather depends on the size of your garden, but there are a couple of options:

A purpose built plastic bin purchased from a garden centre, not too expensive; and you just fill up from the top and a few months later, you can take compost from a small hatch at the base.

Alternatively, if you can wield a saw and some nails, you can make a wooden slatted enclosure, one metre square - or you can buy them ready made - and cover it with a piece of old carpet to keep the worst of the weather off.

What you can compost:

- all uncooked vegetable and fruit peelings
- teabags, tea leaves and coffee grounds
- egg shells
- dead flowers from the house
- and from the garden, soft prunings
- spent bedding plants, dead leaves, lawn mowings
- spent compost from hanging baskets or containers
- some dryer materials such as shredded pape
- rabbit and guinea pig bedding.

The only thing you have to be careful about is to mix different types of material; if you have too many grass clippings in a big mass, they will turn soggy and slimy, or if there is too much paper and prunings, it will be too dry. So keep an eye on it, especially if you are using the wooden enclosure, and mix it with a fork occasionally.

What NOT to compost:

- all meat products and bones; bread, cooked food - these will attract vermin
- dog or cat waste
- woody material - which takes too long to compost
- weeds - these can ‘infect’ your compost with their seeds
- anything that is non-biodegradable.

And because you won’t always feel like taking a trip to the compost heap when it’s wet or cold or every time you peel vegetables why not keep a lidded container by the back door which you can fill up and then make the trip to the compost bin every one or two days?

Over a period of time - 3 months to 1 year, depending on conditions - all this matter will have broken down into lovely dark brown crumbly compost, which you can fork into your beds and borders. It makes an excellent soil conditioner and can be used as surface mulch, helping conserve moisture and discourage weeds.

You can also convert fallen leaves into wonderful compost. Rake up any leaves from your lawn - you may have to do this several times over the autumn - and collect them from the borders. Put them all into a black waste sack, sprinkle with water, put a few holes around the sack with a fork, tie the top, and leave it in a corner for about a year. What you end up with is known as leaf-mould.

Fran Barnwell is a self-taught gardener, learning through experience in her own garden. Fran understands the difficulties that face new gardeners, and has written The Ultimate Guide to Gardening for Beginners, a successful eBook that helps anyone new to gardening to get started, explaining the basics in easy to understand terms. To find out more and to sign up to receive a free series of articles, go to http://www.NewToGardening.com

Article Source: Sustainable Living Articles

Organic vegetable gardening, the benefits to you and your family are huge.
Would you rather eat fresh lush vegetables without the fear of insecticides and chemicals? Would you like to feed your family a natural food, full of antioxidants and vitamins? Organic vegetable gardening is your one and only answer.

Have you ever seen soil after years of applications of chemical fertilizers? Icky. The color is just like the soil, bleached, colorless, lifeless. Have you seen organic soil? Organically managed soil is rich in beneficial organisms, richly composted to a rich dark color. Which soil would you rather grow vegetables, any of your plants in?

Are you becoming aware or very aware of the need to preserve, to protect our environment? Organic vegetable gardening, organic gardening in any form is the better way to grow. You can grow lush delicious fruit and vegetables, wonderfully strong flowers, trees, and shrubs without the harmful effects of chemicals.

There are so many sources on the net, in magazines (we highly recommend “Organic Gardening”), in books to research all the benefits of Organic Vegetable Gardening. Whether you have a small patio space for containers only, or a huge garden space, you can successfully grow the ‘Organic’ way.

Healthy soil is full of beneficial organisms called nematodes. Growing beans, peas, and nasturtiums encourage and multiply these beneficial organisms. In naturally organic soil, worms are your friends, multiplying quickly to organize a huge troop of soldiers to munch and digest the soil. They naturally compost the soil through the digestive process to give you a rich beneficial medium to grow your plants in. Chemicals kill the beneficial organisms and discourage the worms. Who wants to eat plastic?

With a little research, you can find out that you rotate your crops so that the peas, beans, and pretty nasturtiums reinvigorate the soil depleted by other crops. You can plant marigolds to repel the natural enemies of your vegetables. They don’t like the color or the smell. Marigolds are priceless to a natural organic vegetable garden, pretty and workhorses for you.

Encourage natural predators in your organic vegetable gardening plans. These natural allies will assist you in keeping your vegetables pest free. They include ladybugs that voraciously eat aphids and wasps who love to sting and eat worms, anything that moves into their territory.

Other natural organic vegetable gardening friends are the friendly preying mantis which has an enormous appetite for bad bugs and the delicate lovely green lacewing. Welcome these friends, encourage their presence in your organic vegetable garden.

Gurneys’ Seed and Nursery is a long time favorite for strong vegetables for your organic vegetable garden. Their fruits are wonderful too. You can’t miss with this aged company who also offers natural sprays, traps, and pest solutions. Their constant research and development programs guarantee you the finest quality.

Strong plants naturally discourage pests and disease, cuts your work and preservation needs down considerably. You can order from Gurneys’ online or through their catalog. We at LandscapeCentral.net highly recommend this tried and true organic vegetable gardening source.

The benefits of feeding your family food you have homegrown are enormous. You know what conditions they are grown under and what they have been exposed to. You know you are getting the best of the best, naturally grown organic vegetable gardening at it’s best, all in your control and supervision.

Lastly, you not only benefit your family, you benefit your immediate neighborhood, your local natural ecosystem. A pebble dropped in a pool has radiating patterns of effect. You can be that pebble that starts a no chemical, all natural organic vegetable gardening project in your own backyard.

Article Source: Sustainable Living Articles

The author’s vocation is as a certified appraiser of personal property. He says, “My vocation and my avocation all are centered on value. Family, the outdoors, gardening, and creating our own backyard sanctuary provides me with the most value in my life. A value I am most happy to share with you.”  Visit us at http://www.LandscapingCentral.net/ for a total landscaping and gardening experience.

Anyone who prefers to buy their vegetables and flowers from the local grocery store will have a difficult time understanding the gardener’s delight digging into a smelly pile of compost, or having a truck load of manure dumped in their yard. Really, who in their right mind, would pay to have a substance excreted by animals brought to their home?

A gardener. One who knows that good manure and compost can be the difference between a lush garden and a sparse, struggling one. And lets not forget the aroma, a gardener will describe the smell of compost or manure, as “sweet”, or “rich”, the average person, with no interest in gardening, is more likely to use the word “disgusting”.

An experienced gardener knows that compost and manure are the life-blood of a garden. It is the primary way to enrich your soil naturally, and provide all the nutrients your plants will need to grow healthy and strong. The addition of compost and manure can transform even the worst soil into black gold, given enough time.

Composting is a natural biological process where bacteria, fungi and other organisms decompose organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, and food wastes. The resulting product is called compost. Although composting occurs naturally, the process can be accelerated and improved by human intervention.

Where do you start?

In this article the focus will be on composting. If you are new to gardening, knowing how to start and build a good compost bin may seem a little complex, you may ask, “How do I build a compost bin” or “What can I put in my compost bin”. Overall, making compost is relatively simple.

We will focus on compost bins and tumblers. Tumblers are excellent alternatives for gardeners living in the city who may not have room for a compost bin, or where city bylaws prohibit open compost bins. Putting kitchen scraps in the compost bin versus the garbage can have the added benefit of reducing foul odors. You will also have the peace of mind knowing you are contributing less garbage to the local landfill.

It is best to have two compost bins, one for fresh compost additives, and the other for use in your garden each season. Using two compost bins ensures you will always have good compost at the start of each gardening season. If you prefer to use tumblers, the same principal applies. One is in development, the other is ready to use.

There are two ways of composting, “Passive” and “Managed”.

Passive composting
This is really very basic. You have a compost bin; you throw in all the various kitchen scraps, yard waste and so on. Once in a while, you mix it up; weather, bacteria, fungi and time do the rest. Hopefully, each year, you will have useable compost. Often referred to as “The Lazy Gardener’s Compost”.

Managed composting
This requires more time and attention than passive composting, but the resulting compost will be ready sooner, and better quality. A managed compost pile is often referred to as hot compost since the pile heats up as it decomposes, thus speeding up the process.

A managed compost bin can be ready in just 6 weeks, however, unless you are using tumblers, in most cases useable compost will probably take 2 to 3 months. Chopping or shredding leaves and other materials will speed up the process drastically.

Most of the organisms that decompose organic matter in a compost bin are aerobic - this means they need air to survive, so air circulation is important. This can be done by mixing (turning the top and sides of the pile into the center) the pile up every 3 or 4 days, or when the compost begins to feel cool. Building a bin with slats allows air to enter the pile from the sides. Using both methods is best.

How fast you produce finished compost will be determined by what you add to your compost, if you chop it up and how you mix them together. Layering is a common technique, but in most cases, redundant if you hand mix the pile.

The temperature of your compost pile is critical - If it is warm or hot, everything is good. If it feels luke warm, decomposition has slowed down and you need to add more materials such as grass clippings, leaves or kitchen waste. If you prefer to be very precise with the management of your compost, a compost thermometer can be used see how well your compost is doing. They are not expensive and readily available. If you can’t buy locally, you will easily find them online.

Keeping your compost pile moist is important. Too dry, and the pile will not decompose as quickly. A compost pile should be moist, but not wet - add water or dry matter as required to maintain this balance. To much water will reduce air in the compost thus slowing down the decay process. A good sign of healthy compost is worms. Worms don’t like it too cold, too hot, too wet or too dry - they can be used to monitor the condition of your compost.

A new compost pile will begin to heat up within a few days as the microorganisms thrive and your pile begins to decompose. Ideally, your pile should heat to about 140-160 degrees to kill weed seeds and diseases that may be present in garden plants.

Building a compost bin
A compost bin can be made from almost any scrap lumber. It does not need to be pretty; it simply has to hold all the different household and yard waste you will be adding to it. See the image to your right; this is typical of a compost bin.

A good design will be at least 3′ x 3′ x 3′. This will provide enough mass to generate optimal temperatures. A bin should incorporate removable front panels, usually in the form of boards, which can be removed one at a time. This is important since the weight of mature compost against a single large panel may make it impossible to open. If you want to get fancy, you can add a gate on the front.

There are many ways to build a compost bin, the details of which are too lengthy for this article. However, a simple search on Google using the term “How to build a compost bin” will provide numerous links to websites offering you many ways to go about building a compost bin. There are heap composting and worm composting - although worms can, and should be added to any compost bin, regardless of design.

Compost bins need to be turned by hand (mixed) to help with the decomposing process and help recently added scraps decompose quicker. Mixing helps improve overall quality of your compost.

Compost tumblers
You have probably seen these on Internet or at your local garden shop. Basically, they are a round tub, mounted on a frame, or base, designed to turn compost and speed development. Many will also collect compost tea (excess nutrient rich moisture that seeps into the base of the tumbler).

Compost tumblers are perfect if space is limited, or city bylaws do not permit open compost bins. They are also ideal if you have a small garden and do not need a large bin. These bins work by rotating the bin every few days, which can speed up compost development by as much a 3 times. The rotation helps to mix compost evenly and create very good compost.

What can you put in your compost?

• Grass Clippings (thin layers 1 - 2 inches)
• Leaves and yard waste
• Flowers
• Dead plants from end of season garden
• Weeds without seed heads
• Fruit and vegetable scraps
• Coffee grounds
• Tea bags
• Egg shells
• Citrus fruits (cut up)
• Pure wool jumpers and socks (cut up)
• Pure cotton articles (cut up)
• Blood and bone (with no meat)
• Shredded newspaper
• Small amounts of wood ash

Do not add the following to your compost!

• Any Type Of Plastic
• Foam
• Metal
• Weeds with seeds (personal recommendation)
• Bulbous weeds
• Weeds with runners
• Pet Droppings
• Dead Vertebrate Animals
• Uncooked Meats
• Cooked Meats
• Diary Products (Except Egg Shells)
• Pig manure (questionable parasites and bacteria)
• Big woody twigs
• Evergreen needles (unless you want an acidic compost)

Troubleshooting
Composting is generally not a problem and easy to do. However, sometimes things don’t progress as expected and this can usually be attributed to a few common problems. Here are the most common problems and solutions:

• Bad odor
  There is not enough air, or your pile is too wet. Mix the pile, or add dry materials to the pile.
• Not decomposing
  Pile may be to dry or wet. If dry, mix the pile and moisten as you turn the compost. If wet, mix the pile and add more dry material.
• Compost feels right, but not heating up
  Lack of nitrogen - add items like grass clippings, manure, and other greens
• Animals attracted to the compost
  Are you adding meat or milk products to the pile. Avoid scraps likely to attract animals.

Compost is the best natural fertilizer for your garden. In most cases, it contains all the nutrients your plants will need. Compost made with a wide variety of materials, including manure (recommended) is the best.

Compost is the best natural material to enrich and build soil. If you want black gold, you need compost. Experienced gardeners know that healthy soil, rich in organic matter, will grow healthier plants that naturally resist disease, insects, and adverse weather.

What more could a gardener ask for.Article Source: Sustainable Living Articles